Out of Africa : A Weekend in the Park

There were few tears as we left our tents along the Okavango River. The constant grunting and snorting of the hippos was a chorus we were happy to say goodbye to and the wet weather which left everything in our bags damp would not be missed. This area also has its compliment of hungry crocodiles and our guide, Micheal (pictured in a former post) lost his mother to one of the beasts while washing clothes in the river. Michael told us that children are take every year by these cold blooded killers.

Saying goodbye to our host, Horst Kock (don't say that name with a mouth full of jelly beans) we were again on the road. Our drive from Ndhovu was over 600 km long, so the weary travellers made sure that "happy hour" included some cold beer. We have witnessed a dramatic change from the rainy cooler weather of the Caprivi region. Ciontinuing in a westerly direction, the temperature has risen and the vegetation diminished considerably.

Entering Etosha National Park on Feb. 8th, Kembo drove us to one of the waterholes in this gigantic 22,000 square km park. These waterholes sustain the wildlife of the region and are excellent vantage points for game viewing. Watching the giraffes cautiously approach the banks of the spring fed pool we marvelled at their efforts to spread their front legs wide enough to reach the much needed water. It really is quite a process, all the while keeping a lookout for the always present carnivores.

Our first lodge was at the entrance to the park and had originally been built as a German fort in 1803. This fort was overrun and sacked during one of the early wars between the Germans and the local tribes of the region. In 1906 it was rebuilt as an outpost and eventually became the unique setting for Namutoni Rest Camp. We have noticed the German influence of the region and have encountered a substantial white population in some of the towns we have passed through.

With kudu steak on the menu we were again treated to a taste of African game. The steaks were very good and there were several of the hard working travellers in our group who took advantage of seconds. The other meat offered for sampling was smoked zebra. It was a dark, tender slice not unlike jerky, again quite tasty.

Our 7am departure from camp allowed us to view a few of the remaining thirsty animals as we continued through the park to our next lodge. Along the way we were fortunate enough to see a rare white rhino as well as numerous hartebeest, blue wildebeest, gazelles, and zebra. Our only elephant was almost white as a result of the dust bath he had just completed.

Halali Camp, approximately half way through the park offered us the opportunity to make use of their very large swimming pool. Both camps in the park were fully fenced to protect visitors from the wild animals. This was in stark contrast to many of the other lodges we stayed at, where we were escorted to and from our rooms at night.

This area of the park was a total surprise. Although it is revered for its abundance of wildlife, because of the extreme dryness of the area we saw very little. That is except for the rarest of sightings; rhinos. In all we saw a total of eleven individuals which our guide, Kembo, told us was the most he has ever seen in his ten years of guiding.

Our last meal in Etosha allowed us to enjoy more game meat; this time it was impala. We have seen these graceful, beautiful animals often. The males with their gently curved horns often controlled a harem of twenty or more females. They also taste great!